UP COMING ACTION MOVIE JUST SHOT IN 2024 -
STARING DAVE BAUTISTA, OLGA KURYLENKO, SAMUEL L JACKSON, KRISTOFER HIVJU
Directed by JJ Perry and Produced by Steve Richards for Endurance Media
Gangs' costume guru David Wolfe on designing the most stylish show on television - where violence and velour meet in perfect harmony,
"I've murdered a lot of people in my career," begins costume designer David Wolfe, aka Wolfie, about his long history of working on crime TV shows. "But there's a slickness and beauty to Gangs of London. It's almost a balletic style of violence”.
Working on Gangs, you're working in a very artistic medium." Wolfie was tasked with not only developing new looks for the ever-expanding criminal underworld ("The thing with Gangs is there are so many factions; you have to try to remember the characterisations") but also map out the wildly changing fortunes of the major players throughout the tumultuous season. "A lot of the characters may be in a tailored three-piece suit at the beginning of the show, end up in a tracksuit halfway through after they've fallen from grace, and then you see them again in a suit when they've regained their power. There's a massive power shift over who's taking over London, and that creates a very interesting costume challenge for how you dress the characters on their journey."
For Sean Wallace, Wolfie opted for a look that was, "stylish, very controlled. We kept his colour palette minimal, not quite aggressive, harking back to an Italian reserve, a powerful sleekness. Joe looked rather good in it, I thought." When it came to dress Sopé Dirísü's Elliot Carter, Wolfie selected a Belstaff jacket as his Hero Costume ("it's like the duel do-or-die outfit") that reminded series director Corin Hardy of a key component of his childhood. "Corin really wanted to have him in a jacket that said (70s toy) Action Man, without going into the world of the navy with the patches and everything. It's a throwback to Elliot's former life in the military. Sope is incredibly fit so this helps define his shape and gives him this brooding power. He also wears a Field jacket, a softer linen version of this, in the Turkish scene that keeps the same silhouette, which is important as it allows you to recognise him.”
The new characters in Season 2 highlighted not only the huge diversity of cultures represented in the series but also the disparities of wealth. At the poorer end of the wealth scale is Saba, a member of the new Algerian family, played by Jahz Armando. "It's all vintage, we just tried to be eclectic and interesting I found this beautiful silk velvet jacket in Brick Lane that is reflective of Saba's character. Their costume is probably the cheapest in the whole show. It's one of my favourite things."
At the other end of the scale, perhaps Wolfie's biggest challenge on Gangs was dressing Koba, the Georgian enforcer
"Koba's wearing this amazing, rich, decadent, flamboyant clothing. He's a pirate, basically” Koba was brought in by the Investors to keep the gangs in line, memorably played by Waleed Zuaiter. "Koba breaks the conventions of stiffness that we have within the established gang community. Everyone is in power suits and there's a real formality to it. Koba comes in and destroys all that. There's a decadence and flamboyance to him, which Waleed portrays through Koba beautifully”
Wolfie chose "a beautiful Helmut Lang satin jacket because it had a tracksuit vibe about it" and paired it with bespoke silk velvet bottoms and a fake Versace style shirt that hints at Koba's darkness but also highlighted another side of his personality.
"He's got untold wealth, but he's kind of tacky, laughs Wolfie. "I think that's what's really nice, because he doesn't know he's tacky. He's wearing this amazing rich, decadent, flamboyant clothing, He's a pirate, basically, but a pirate that kills, murders, tortures and is a high-tech criminal genius.”
Gangs of London's high volume of stunts and action meant the cast needed multiple replicas of every costume; Michelle Fairley's Marian Wallace had ten handmade iterations of all her outfits. For one fight scene in Turkey, Sope Dirísù needed ten jackets, 20 shirts and 20 pairs of trousers. But perhaps the biggest challenge lay with Lucian Msamati's Ed Dumani, who battles through kidnap, torture, rain and mud in seemingly the most expensive threads imaginable.
"Ed wears a three-piece Savile Row suit" says Wolfie. "Nobody has the budget to buy a three-piece Savile Row suit 20 times. However, I managed to find a suit that was reasonable in price. We tailored it to fit Lucian and bought 20 of those.
It's fascinating. People will automatically presume we just bought one costume and it's just lived its life." In the Gangs universe, it's not just Sean Wallace who has more than one life.
COSTUME DESIGNER - WOLFIE